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Memo from the Euro-Desk: In Czech with some Finns

Jan Marek sent the puck to the net and the  Finns back home. Photo: Jukka Rautio / HHOF-IIHF Images

Over the course of the next day or two, I will be completing my series of European hockey cultural exchanges. These posts were originally written while on the road, and now that I have recovered from both jet lag and the reminder that Kingston Ontario does not compare to Europe in the slightest, I now feel able to get back to writing. This is an edited version of my original story, because what went down that day was too convoluted to be published in such a forum. Try as I might, Hunter S. Thompson I am not, so my travel/sports journalism cannot be produced in the same vein.  This first story is from last Thursday while in Prague, with two Finns I met at the hostel the night before. More after the jump...

Star-divide

It's Wednesday night, the 19th of May and I am in Prague. I had spent much of the afternoon at the Prague beerfest, a giant tent party celebrating the thing that Czechs love more than all others, beer. I was traveling alone at this point in my journey but had made friends with another traveler and she convinced me that going to beerfest with her was a good idea. So I did, thinking to myself, well, I'll spare you all the details-this is a pg rated site. We had a wonderful time, though by this point I learned about the inevitable boyfriend that she neglected to mention before getting me drunk, much to my disappointment, but we returned to the hostel to find the other people in her dorm room still up and drinking too. Her dorm was much bigger than mine, featuring seven other people; three Canadian girls, two Americans, and most interestingly, two Finns. So, being the good journalist that I am not, I decided to engage these Finns to discover how much they love our game. And love it they do. Antto is from a little town he assumed I had never heard of, Imatra, birth place of former Oiler Jussi Markkanen while his buddy Vesa is from Helsinki. At this point, we proceeded to drink really awful vodka and talk Finnish and international hockey and philosophy for the next few hours until it was time to pass out. Derek's hetero-man-crush, one Teemu Hartikainen, as well as half-Finn MP(S) were major topics, as well as why the NHL is an inferior system to the Euro leagues, mostly due to the smaller ice and that teams that suck aren't relegated. I was a bit offended by that last remark, but in all honesty, maybe the Oilers should be relegated to OKC for a year.

 

The next day the Finns and I decided to do something that seemed very Finnish--we journeyed away from Prague to a little town called Kutna Hora to see a place called the Bone Cathedral. I can't remember the story about it, but it seemed really cool at the time, and trust the black-metal listening Finns to drag me to a church filled with skulls. Yes, that stereotype actually rings true--these guys listen to some seriously heavy stuff. They say it helps fight away the winter blues to play really aggressive music. 

Bone Cathedral (Click for Full-Size)

We Left the bone cathedral and returned to Prague in time to catch the game, the Czech/Finn game to be precise.  On our way back from Kutna Hora, we were in a train car with an old Czech man, probably in his early 60s who was very into the game and a huge Jagr fan. He said he wished Jaromir Jagr would leave Russia and come to the Oilers, like many others, specifically to play with Ales Hemsky, particularly because he was born in Hemsky's hometown and wants to see a local win Stanley and bring it back to Pardubice. He also very pleasantly wished the Finns a painless loss in the upcoming match. I have always had a soft spot for the Finns and the Slovaks, always playing second fiddle to their more popular neighbors, so I was feeling pretty great about my decision to fly enemy colors on Czech turf. Then something hit me--it was Thursday and I was supposed to be in Germany covering the Canada Russia match live. I had pulled the ultimate travelers mistake and spaced on the dates. Staying an extra day in Poland threw off my travel plans something fierce, and I actually forgot what day of the week it was. So I have clearly failed, and am now forced to publicly admit that I am a really bad travel correspondent. But I digress...

We got off the train and wandered off to a sports bar in the belly of the beast with the stated goal of becoming the enemies of the state in the heart of their home.The game itself was nothing special, a defensive battle between two teams with very strong goalies and proven systems. It was also a rematch of the Olympic QF match from earlier in the year, despite completely different rosters for both, the Czechs were clearly out for revenge. When the Finns scored first, early in the game off a wicked wrist shot from Petri Kontiola, showing incredible patience on a partial break to wait for Tomas Vokun to go down early. The three of us started cheering and shouting madly while the entire bar turned around to see who was defacing their team and country. For a split second, I feared for my life, but then I remembered that my travel mates are Finns--they have military training.

The Finns nursed the lead until early in the third and ultimately lost in the shootout, but there was something really rewarding about watching an international game with non-Canadians while abroad, something that not every serious fan gets the opportunity to experience but really should. It is a different world, with fight songs and cheers that don't involve cursing the other team, and most importantly with beer that is as good as it was cheap; there is truly nothing like drinking a Pilsner lager that was actually brewed in Pilsn, where the kind of beer was born, and paying less than $2/pint on top of it! There is a sense in over here that European sports fans aren't as passionate about hockey as Canadians are, but both the Czechs and Finns are as knowledgeable and intense as it gets, knowing their leagues, the top prospects, and the styles of play that both nations are famous for.  The Finns were gracious in defeat as the Czechs were in victory, allowing a couple Czechs to buy us beers to cry into. It was a nice touch, almost making up for my missing the chance to see the Canadians get slaughtered by the Russians. In hindsight, I think my spacing on the date was a blessing in disguise.

Up next, my final travel piece: Legendary Sports rivalries-Celtics/Rangers vs. Oilers/Flames

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Great post, shepso. This site is definitely producing some of the best hockey writing on the web. It’s a lifestyle, an international obsession, a glue. Poetry, mathematics, diplomacy and rock n’ roll. Safe travels and keep up the good work!

by K Marshall on May 26, 2010 5:22 PM MDT reply actions  

I read this whole thing

It’s awesome.

Why do you have to diss Kingston? I’m staying here for the summer.

A Nation of Masochists
its done and gone, now we enter the era of getting monstrously giggy with juicy boobs and then waking up wondering if we have the scrivens -JaredFromLondon

by furcifer on May 26, 2010 7:12 PM MDT reply actions  

I just got back…I like it here a lot, but it’s no Prague…

that other regular writer for bringing back the glory...

by Stephen Sheps on May 26, 2010 7:18 PM MDT up reply actions  

I’m hopelessly biased, but no city on earth is quite like Prague. It’s still cheaper than most famous European cities, easy to get around quickly, and filled with everything from beer to music to history to ghoul.

Lighthouse Hockey: Playing the NHL Lotto

by Dominik on May 27, 2010 10:04 AM MDT up reply actions  

Just for the record, I too would have talked hockey with the Finnish dudes rather than talking to women.

Editor of The Copper & Blue, and leader of The Cult Of Hartikainen.

by Derek Zona on May 26, 2010 7:39 PM MDT reply actions  

I am going call Shepso out as a liar. The reason he talked hockey was that he already tried talk to women.

one of the founders and most prolific writers of Bringing Back the Glory

by B.C.B. on May 27, 2010 9:54 AM MDT up reply actions  

no denials, just simply removing that part from the narrative… nobody needs a story that includes two failures in a single day

that other regular writer for bringing back the glory...

by Stephen Sheps on May 27, 2010 10:23 AM MDT up reply actions  

Not to be a nitpicker.. but Hemsky is from Pardubice which is Hasek’s hometown… Jagr is from Kladno which is home to the Kaberle’s, Pavelece, Voracek and Plekanec. In case you are wondering, the 2 cities are pretty far apart (by Czech Standards).

by Czechboy on May 26, 2010 8:31 PM MDT reply actions  

@Czechboy, I was referring to the old guy, not Jagr. I am well aware that Jagr and Hemsky are from different regions…The guy just wanted Jagr to sign in Edmonton for Hemsky’s sake

that other regular writer for bringing back the glory...

by Stephen Sheps on May 26, 2010 8:36 PM MDT reply actions  

Terrific post, Shepso, thanks! That stuff on the Bone Cathedral just blew me away. Never ’eard of it.

Finland and Czech are two of my very favourite hockey nations. Glad to hear their fans lived up to my lofty expectations. Sounds like a helluva good time.

Derek: The best case scenario would have been talking hockey with Finnish women.

Writer for The Copper & Blue and primary shareholder of Zorg Industries

"Never be ashamed of who you are" -- Jean-Baptiste Emanuel Zorg

by Bruce McCurdy on May 26, 2010 10:01 PM MDT reply actions  

They would be sqeeeeing at Hartikainen pictures all night long.

by Scott Reynolds on May 26, 2010 10:07 PM MDT up reply actions  

to be honest Bruce, I just put in the words and pictures, Derek is the formatting and hyperlink wizard. But yes, the bone cathedral is pretty awesome. I’ve got a bunch of pics (the one I included was my own…) from it that I can email you if you’d like.

that other regular writer for bringing back the glory...

by Stephen Sheps on May 27, 2010 7:53 AM MDT up reply actions  

Please do

Thanks!

And yes, I know all about Derek’s formatting skills. I would be Lost without him.

Writer for The Copper & Blue and primary shareholder of Zorg Industries

"Never be ashamed of who you are" -- Jean-Baptiste Emanuel Zorg

by Bruce McCurdy on May 27, 2010 8:45 AM MDT up reply actions  

Great post

That bone church is one of those slightly cheesy things that you just have to see anyway. I think that picture almost makes it look bigger than it is, too — it’s actually quite cramped, which really adds to the effect.

Now if they only had a hockey rink made out of bones…

Lighthouse Hockey: Playing the NHL Lotto

by Dominik on May 27, 2010 10:02 AM MDT up reply actions  

Thanks for the nice article. Trips to Central Europe are always hardcore: cheap tasty beer and cheap tasty women (OK, that was a bit too much) everywhere.

Now if they only had a hockey rink made out of bones…

Contents of the United Arena after game 1. Wait and see. ;)

Btw. Sami Kapanen announced today that he’s retiring. Sad day for us KalPa fans. Time to grab a pint and listen to some (heavy) stoner rock.

by Waker on May 27, 2010 11:11 AM MDT reply actions  

I saw that on Twitter. Sami was a fine player, very underrated. Versatile, too, one of the very few who could flip from F back to D and still be effective.

Writer for The Copper & Blue and primary shareholder of Zorg Industries

"Never be ashamed of who you are" -- Jean-Baptiste Emanuel Zorg

by Bruce McCurdy on May 27, 2010 1:29 PM MDT up reply actions  

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